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LIGHT • Cattleya require moderate to bright light but avoid direct sunlight at midday as it can burn the leaves (the leaves become yellow). • characteristic plants get enough light is if the leaves are green.
AIR TEMPERATURE: • Good temperature between 13-16 ° C (55-60 ° F) at night and 21-30 ° C (70-85 ° F) at noon. • To plant the seeds must have a 3-5 ° C higher at night. • Recommended temperature differences 5-12 ° C between day and night, especially on older plants to flowering. • Higher temperatures (up to 35 ° C) can tolerate, if the humidity and increase air circulation and more light shade.
AIR HUMIDITY: 45% - 80%
Watering: • watering if the media had almost dried up at the base of the pot. • Flush more often when going to flowering and during flowering.
FERTILIZING: • Fertilizer should be given routinely. • Half of the dose on the label at each watering or 2 times a quarter in each watering.
POTTING: • Well, if placed in pots which can absorb water like a pot of soil and easy media channel such as excess water fern or charcoal. • Repotting can be done at the time the new roots begin to grow, not when will / was flowering. • If you've grown more than 6 trees grown can be broken at least 3 trees for each family. Cut the rhizome (stem that connects the tree with 1 other tree) and planted in pots masing2 new clumps. • For more information, see pages about repotting.
INTEREST: Cattleya flowers are usually large and fragrant. The average interest rate can survive 3-6 weeks.
Choosing the orchids that will be purchased: • Healthy green leaves are, shiny and smooth, without spots. Avoid plants that have yellow or brown spots on leaves and stems, due to possible disease. • Having a false stem or tuber (Pseudobulb) thick, strong and smooth, without spots. Avoid trunk / Pseudobulb wrinkled (probably due to lack of water). • Having a new saplings more (for sympodial orchids), so if the adults die, there instead. In addition, the opportunity to flowering is also greater. • Have used more flower stalks, which means that these orchids bloom quite diligent. • whole-stemmed flowers. The shaft is cut down one of the characteristics that the next flowering may also be truncated. • Kuntum flowers in full bloom and a half (the rate does not shrink), to better enjoy the beauty of the flowers long after purchase. • sturdy trunk was embedded in the pot. If there is the possibility of easy rocking the new orchid plant root system reset or not good. • Check the media, if there are pests (small insects) that crawl. Avoid plants with pests. • See the flower stalk, whether it comes from plants or cut flowers are planted in pots. There are bad sellers orchid, the plant cut flowers on the actual plant has not flowered with the intention to sell the value of these orchids could be higher.
Choosing orchid seeds: • Healthy with young green leaves, with no yellow or brown spots on leaves or stems. • The size of the second leaf is longer than 2 times the first leaf. These orchids will grow faster than the size of both leaves similar to the first leaf. Purple flowers. Of leaf color predictable, that is by looking at the lower surface of leaves. If purple flowers appear with the same color. However, that provision does not apply to other colors. To dendrobium, look at the trunk. If there is a purple color on the stem fibers are likely to purple (or violet color combinations) in interest. Catch whitefly. This small insect is white, can fly and attack by sucking the fluid leaves the leaf. In severe attacks the leaves become dry, stunted growth and the plants become stunted. These pests also indirectly as a virus spreader. To catch it, use plastic or tin used yellow butter. Yellow color attract small insects. Rub cooking oil on the surface. Oil is what will "trap" the little pests. Eliminate white patches on the leaves remaining minerals. To remove the remaining minerals in the leaves of which comes from fertilizer, flush with hati2 using a cloth / cotton dyed with acid solution (vinegar or lemon juice mixed with water - 1 teaspoon per 5 liters of water). Or can also use the milk. Do it more than once if it is not clean. Alcohol as a pesticide. 70% isopropyl alcohol can be used to root mealybugs, whiteflies, scale, fungus gnats, thrips and red spider myth. Clean the leaves / stems affected by pests, cotton bud (q-tip) dipped in alcohol. Repeat the "treatment" for a few days to eliminate the pest is also newly hatched (yellowish spots). Or can be sprayed with water and alcohol solution of 70% with a ratio of 1:1 plus 1 teaspoon of liquid soap.
Warning: Be hati2, alcohol can weaken the plant. Recommended only for the thick-leafed orchids, not to small leaves and thin. Cinnamon to treat infections fungi / bacteria. Ground cinnamon used for making cakes can be to treat fungus infections / bacteria in the orchid. Previous first wet leaves / stems to be treated so that the powder can stick. Then sprinkle the infected area with a little cinnamon. Not too much because it can kill the plants. Inflatable sections so that the rest of the powder from sticking to waste. Powder can also as an antibiotic for luka2 in plants. After the leaves or rotten roots cut, sprinkle a little powder on the scars to prevent new infections. New shoots (keiki) in Phalaenopsis. Phalaenopsis flower stems do not cut after the flowers wither (if still healthy stems brownish-green). It is possible that after 3-4 months later the new flowers will grow from the stalk. Or, kadang2 the stem will form a new plant shoots (keiki). If you want to separate the buds, wait until the roots grow at least 3 pieces with a minimum length of 5 cm. Cut the flower stalk close to the keiki and plant with the appropriate media (eg sphagnum moss). Rainwater to water the orchids. Precipitation is very good for orchids. But his attention pH, which both around 5.5-6.5. When it rains do not immediately accommodated because it contains dirt and dust from the tiles or the roof of the house. After the rain lasted 5-10 minutes, the capacity to clean plastic bucket and if it has full cover tightly to prevent mosquitoes or infected with fungi nesting. To raise the pH is too acidic (pH <6), save the rain all night and give an intensive air bubbles (can use as an aquarium aerator). Removing the roots attached to the pot. When will replace the pot (repotting), the roots of orchids that have been glued to the pot would be difficult to be released without damage. To fix this, soak the entire pot with plain water for some time. After the pot was very wet, tucked carefully thin knife (box cutter or razor blade) between the roots and pot. Do all these embedded roots. Maybe there are one or two roots that are not successfully removed in one piece. Patience is the key. Order Phalaenopsis flowers. • Temperature and light are major factors for most types of Phalaenopsis can bloom. • To form a flower stalk (spike), keep the temperature consistently below 28 ° C (82 ° F). At a temperature 32 ° C (90 ° F), even if only for a short time, will prevent the formation of flower stalks. In other words, to hold that not flowering, keep the temperature remains above 28 ° C (82 ° F) or raise the shade to 50% (light is). • To be on a stalk have more interest, since the size of the flower stem length of 5 cm (2 inch) to consistently keep the temperature between 18 ° C (65F) to 25 ° C (77 ° F). • In addition, do not forget also to give fertilizer regularly. Semi-hydroponics (S / H). is the plant maintenance methods using non-organic media. Because the water does not flow continuously like in the real hydroponic system hence is called a semi-hydroponics. • Media are used to form granules (pellets) clay (clay pellets), rocks, pumice stone, etc.. • Pot used is a sealed pot and made a hole beside kira2 height 2.5cm (1 inch) from the bottom of the pot with 0.6cm (1 / 4 inch). We recommend using a transparent pot (eg mineral water bottle cut it) to make it easier to see the water level in the pot and akar2nya growth. • Enter the media to fill the pot bottom to the hole boundary, and enter the plant root position, the bottom still be above the hole tsb. Hide tsb plant roots with the media again. • Flush the pot until the water out of the hole beside the pot. The water can be mixed fertilizers with very low doses, because the plants will receive a constant supply of nutrients. Place potted plants where they will be in accordance with the light needed by plants tsb. • Flush back if the water was up at all until the bottom pot, but before rinse with running water for several minutes to remove the remaining salt / fertilizer in the pot and the media. This method can help save the orchids that "critical" because the loss akar2nya rotten / damaged.
Orchids like other plants can be attacked by pests and diseases that come from insects, fungus (fungus), bacteria and viruses. Pests and diseases can interfere with growth, even at great attack can cause death in plants. The virus can not be treated, and can spread to other plants. If the plants exposed to the virus, the best way is to destroy it by burning. Suggestions for the prevention of pests and diseases: • Keep plants and environmental hygiene. Clean plants will prevent the emergence of micro-organisms. o Clean-root tubers, remove all the leaves and stem are brown roots before planting. Sela2 leaf midrib and stems can be potentially as a nest of vermin. o Soak the plants with a disinfectant and planting in clean media. o Clean all garden tools before and after use. • Control humidity. Humid air needed for the formation, propagation and spread of fungi. By controlling the humidity will reduce the level of development of fungi. Recommended humidity control are as follows: a. Plants and seeds of plants grown in pots with a solid material such as plastic. b. Improve air circulation in the area planted. Dispose of dead plants and old leaves to prevent the damp areas. c. Start planting area decreased slightly to form a good irrigation system and prevent puddles of water. • Conduct periodic spraying of pesticides. In the dry season is more focused attention to pest and insecticide spraying done more often if necessary. In the rainy season is more attention directed to the bacteria and fungus and fungicide spraying can be done more frequently. • Control of animal disease vectors. Ants, slugs / snails, rodents (mice) can carry the germs of fungi as. For the population of these pests should be kept minimum. • Quarantine new plants. If a new plant, do not directly coupled with the location of existing plants. Separate (quarantine) the orchid in a separate place a few weeks until I was sure the new plant is healthy. To avoid pest attack, I prefer to use an organic insecticide that is Neem Oil. Neem oil comes from trees mimba (neem-tree) and because it does not contain harmful chemicals so friendly to the environment. This proved minimal in my own orchids. Orchids growing in places there are small fish pond and earlier each time a chemical insecticide spraying there is a fish that died from poisoning. But after using Neem oil is no longer a dead fish in the pond, although there is still a remaining solution, and last but not least, my orchid collection is safe from pests. Plus, the leaves become shiny like it had been in the polish. Neem oil also includes a systemic insecticide, which when absorbed by the plants will be toxic to insects that will eat the plant. Neem oil can also prevent some fungi and bacteria (works as a fungicide). More information can be found on page NeemBa Oil. Chemical insecticides such as: Akothion, Decis, Kelthane, Supracide, Curacron etc. I use to clean the newly acquired plants, or if the pest has occurred. To prevent bacteria and fungus is also used sterilant / disinfectant Physan 20, Dithane-M45 and Benlate. Spraying done regularly, neem oil for 2-4 weeks, and fungicides 4-6 weeks depending on the time off. In the rainy season, spraying fungicide be more frequent (once a week), especially for Phalaenopsis species vulnerable to disease. Highly recommended to use a different pesticide spraying every time. Avoid the use of one type of pesticide for a long period of time, to avoid immune / immune to these pests to pesticides.
Replacement of planting pots and media (repotting) can be done every 2-3 years or if: • planting media has been damaged / destroyed / rot or become acidic (pH <5) which will inhibit plant growth. • there is a white crust (the remaining fertilizer) on the media that can kill plants if exposed roots. • plants and / or composition of the roots had grown out of the pot. Do repotting after flowering is complete and begin to grow new roots. The procedure of repotting: • Before use, soak the media first and potted plants will be used in fungicide solution (physan 20 or Dithane M-45) according to their proportion for a few minutes to kill the fungus. Also sterilize the cutting tools to be used by soaking in a solution also physan-20 is. • Soak the planting medium to a solution of vitamin B1 (especially for plants) for some time, if necessary, all night to penetrate the growing medium to reduce stress on the orchids to be grown and accelerate the growth of new roots. • Remove the plant from the old pot carefully so that their roots are not much damaged / broken. To remove the roots that have been glued to the pot, soak the entire pot with water until the roots are starting off from the pot. Or can be helped by using a thin knife (box cutter or razor blade) is inserted between the roots and pot. Maybe there are one or two roots that are not successfully removed in one piece. Patience is the key. • Once removed from the old pot, remove all remaining media attached to plant roots. Cut the roots of dead / bad (dark brown color) with a sterile cutter. For simpodial orchids, clumps can be broken up and planted in different pots (at least 3 fully grown trees for each family). • Soak the plants with a solution of vitamin B1 a few minutes to reduce stress on the plant and accelerate the growth of new roots. • Once planted in the new pot, put in place a rather shady and moist. Do not flush too much, and add vitamin B1 on the first or 3-4 watering until new roots begin to grow.
• not easily damaged / rotten.
• not be a source of disease.
• have good aeration.
• capable of binding water and nutrient substances as well.
• mild.
• easy to obtain the desired amount.
• relatively cheap price.
Planting media can consist of one type of material or a mixture of several ingredients.
Some good materials as planting media for orchids:
• Cork:
Did not break down (decay), a mild but can not absorb water well. Can be used in the piece is mixed with other materials. Can also be used for orchids is posted.
• Charcoal:
No easy decayed, mild, not easily overgrown with fungi and bacteria, but less water absorption and less contain nutrient elements.
• Perlite:
from volcanic material, white, like rocks. Has a binding power of water, aeration and good drainage. Can be mixed with other materials. Weakness, no nutrients and difficult to obtain.
• pumice stone:
has a binding power of water, aeration and drainage is good and durable. Can be mixed with other materials such as pieces of fern, coconut fiber, charcoal, etc..
• Ferns:
has a binding power of water, aeration and drainage is good (quick dry), durable (not quickly decayed), and contains nutrient elements required for the growth of orchids. Ferns good board used for paste orchids.
• Skin pine / fir:
Specifications similar to ferns but rather difficult to obtain. Usually used for orchids which like quick-drying medium, such as Cattleya.
• Pieces of coconut coir (Coco husk chips):
This is the coconut fiber that has been cleaned and in-press and cut into rectangular pieces. Before you use must be soaked first to remove the remaining salt contained in the fiber. Power saving water is very good and contains elements necessary nutrients.
• Sphagnum moss:
Has a binding power of good water, and aeration and drainage have good also. The weakness, if it has been very difficult to dry in the back and a little basahkan expensive.
• The bricks and broken tiles:
Broken bricks widely used as basic medium for potted orchids to absorb water well, has a drainage capacity and good aeration, but a little heavy.
• Styro foam:
Styro foam pieces can be as basic medium for potted orchids to absorb water and have drainage and good aeration and light. Weakness, rather difficult to obtain.
The main criteria in choosing the media for orchid plant is a combination of the watering habits of masing2 people and the need for water orchids. If used frequently watered, so do not use very good media binding water (eg sphagnum moss) for phalaenopsis orchid as it will cause the roots to rot because most of the water.
pH media for orchid planting should be around 5,5-6,5. If damaged / rotten (acid) immediately do the replacement media (repotting).
To determine the small of the media to be used, depending on the thin thick roots. If roots thick, the large pieces will fit, and vice versa if the small roots are the pieces is the best.
air circulation
Orchids do not like the silent air. In their natural habitat, most orchids grow on trees where the wind is always blowing.
Air circulation will help:
• regulate the internal temperature of plants, because plants can not manage alone.
• drain excess moisture that can accumulate in plants.
• distribute hot and cold air evenly for preventing the formation of harmful air bags.
• prevent the emergence of bacteria and fungus / mold that can make a rotten roots and leaves.
• cool the leaves when exposed to heat.
Orchids require clean air and fresh. Air pollution can damage the lives of orchids.
Hanging potted orchid is one of the easiest ways to get good air circulation. Besides, to help drain the media more quickly after watering and insects such as ants make more difficult for the attack.
To help the good air circulation inside the room can use a fan.
Orchid consists of various kinds (genus) and the above information is to orchids in general.
fertilization
Most orchids grow above ground (usually attached to the tree) and they get food from rain water that contains nutrients content (nutrients) that low levels, most orchids are not "heavy eaters".
Nutrient processed by plants through photosynthesis in the leaves of a process that will produce the carbohydrates needed for growth and development of orchids.
Nutrients can be obtained from compound fertilizer containing the main content of Nitrogen, and Potassium Phosporus (K), or commonly abbreviated as NPK. The percentage of NPK elements are usually listed on the label. For example: 45-10-10, means the fertilizer contains 45% Nitrogen, 10% and 10% Phosporus Potassium.
Nitrogen is important for plant growth (vegetative growth). If the excess will lead to growth in excess of normal (overweight) and will slow down the flowering (growth generative). Conversely, if the lack of nitrogen will cause plants to be stunted.
Phosporus useful to set up several activities to like: the formation of cells, encouraging root growth and stimulate flowering (growth generative). Phosporus deficiency will also cause the plants to be stunted and dark green leaves.
Potassium is useful for healthy growth. Shortage will cause the plants to be stunted.
In addition to the basic elements (N, P and K) or the so-called macro nutrients (macronutrients), plants also need other minerals such as calcium, magnesium, iron etc which are usually called micro-nutrients (micronutrients) because the plants require only very little compared to N, P and K.
Fertilizer is ideal if the addition of nutrient elements also contain micro nutrients.
Based on construction materials, fertilizers generally divided into 2 types, namely:
• Fertilizer artificial / synthetic, ie fertilizer made from bahan2 chemical processing.
Example: Grow More, Hyponex, Dekastar, Vitabloom, etc..
• Organic fertilizer, which fertilizer made from organic bahan2 like manure (compost), fish oil, etc..
The procedure recommended fertilization:
• The seeds of plants given fertilizer with a high content of N (45-10-10).
For teens plants given fertilizer containing N, P, K-balanced (20-20-20).
And age of flowering plants can be interspersed with high P-yield fertilizer (10-40-15).
• Apply fertilizer with a lower dose of the rules listed on the packaging. Less is better than most.
Excessive fertilization is useless because the orchids are unable to absorb food quickly.
Salt that arise (shaped like a white crust) on the media and around the pot, or the end of the black leaves are a sign of excess fertilizer. Roots will be black if exposed to salt it, and if ongoing can cause plants to die.
• Apply fertilizer in the morning (7-9 hours in the morning), because the morning sun to help the distribution of these nutrients.
Avoid fertilizing during the day because it can burn the leaves.
• We recommend that you first flush the whole plant including the leaves with plain water before spraying fertilizer.
• Spray the fertilizer into other parts of plants (roots, stems, leaves) including the lower leaves.
Nutrients that enter the leaf through the stomata (mouths leaves) will be processed faster than those entering through the roots, because the process of photosynthesis in leaves was also performed.
There is an interesting article (click here) on plant breeding with the help of the sound of birds singing or garengpung.
• Once a month, soak or spray continuously orchid pots with clean water for a few minutes to clean and remove the remaining salt that may arise from excess fertilizer in the planting medium. Besides, to remove all remaining media destroyed plant.
• Fertilizer can be mixed with insecticides or fungicides according to their proportion.
• Do not give fertilizer on the sick plants.
I myself now more use of organic fertilizers (TopSoil, Neem Oil, etc.) rather than synthetic fertilizers. The surplus, environmentally friendly and drawbacks, rather smelly.
From several sites and nursery orchid lovers abroad, they use English salt (Epsom salts or magnesium sulfate) as a supplement (additional nutrients) for the orchids. Magnesium (Mg) is one of the essential micro-nutrient elements for growth and the beginning of the process of flowering orchids. In rain water, ground water, artificial fertilizer (Grow more, Hyponex, etc.) already present in the amount of Mg element a bit.
British Salt cheaper and can be purchased in stores or pharmacies chemistry. I myself have tried to measure 1 / 2 teaspoon for 2 l of water and given 2 weeks into other parts of the plant (leaves, stems and roots). Until now has not seen tanda2 negative effects.
Please read the orchid-lovers experience on this British salt and it never hurts to try.
Orchid consists of various kinds (genus) and the above information is to orchids in general.
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